Here's something most tourists don't know: the Koreans standing outside Gyeongbokgung Palace probably haven't been inside in years.
Gyeongbokgung (경복궁) is one of those places that locals pass by constantly but rarely step into. Ask a Korean when they last visited, and the answer is often something like: "When my kid was in elementary school." That's not because it isn't worth seeing — it genuinely is — but because for Koreans, it tends to belong to the category of "important place I should take visitors to." Which, honestly, makes a lot of sense for a palace.
Built in 1395 at the founding of the Joseon Dynasty, Gyeongbokgung served as the main royal palace for centuries. Much of what you see today is a restoration — the Japanese colonial government demolished a large portion of the complex, and reconstruction has been ongoing since the 1990s — but the scale still impresses, and the mountain backdrop hasn't changed in six hundred years.
Hyangwonjeong Pavilion in autumn — Gyeongbokgung Palace, Seoul
Getting There and Tickets
Take Line 3 (orange) to Gyeongbokgung Station (경복궁역), Exit 5, and walk straight toward the main gate, Gwanghwamun (광화문). If you haven't figured out the subway yet, this guide to the Seoul Metro covers everything you need before you go.
What to See
The throne hall, Geunjeongjeon (근정전), is the obvious centerpiece — this is where coronations took place. From there, walk north to Gyeonghoeru Pavilion (경회루), a two-story wooden structure set on a wide lotus pond. It's the kind of view that ends up on every Seoul postcard, and for good reason.
What most visitors miss is how much quieter the palace gets once you move past the entrance crowds. The inner grounds have a calm, almost intimate quality — despite the size, there's a certain modesty to it that's distinctly Korean. If you've been to, say, the Forbidden City in Beijing, the scale here is noticeably smaller. But that contrast is part of the point. There's a restrained elegance to the place once you slow down long enough to notice it.
Years before that, when I was in my twenties, I once took a foreign friend on a self-guided tour of the palace. It was only then that I realized how little I actually knew about the history. My English wasn't great either, so I ended up pointing at the information boards and saying "read that." Somewhere in there, I had a fleeting thought that I could be a tour guide. That didn't go anywhere.
The Gyeonghoeru Pavilion area is the part I always think is worth the trip. There's something about the late afternoon light on that pond. I haven't done the night opening (야간관람) yet — it's notoriously hard to get tickets — but it's on my list.
The Night Opening — And Why It's So Hard to Get In
Twice a year, in spring and autumn, Gyeongbokgung opens for evening visits. The program is called Byeolbit Yahaeng (별빛야행), which translates roughly as "starlight night walk." It includes a guided tour with traditional music, access to areas not open during the day, and a traditional food experience — all under palace lighting at night. Tickets run ₩60,000 per person.
A Bit of History Worth Knowing
When Japan colonized Korea in the early 20th century, the colonial government chose to build the massive Government-General building directly in front of Gyeongbokgung — deliberately blocking the view of the palace. The first Governor-General reportedly insisted on this location over other options. The intent was symbolic: placing the seat of colonial power directly in front of Korea's royal palace was a statement about who was now in charge. The building stood for decades after liberation, serving variously as a government office and a national museum, before being demolished in 1995 under President Kim Young-sam as part of a national effort to restore the palace and reckon with colonial history. The spire was preserved and sent to the Independence Hall in Cheonan; the rest was torn down. The restoration of Gyeongbokgung has been ongoing ever since, with a completion target now set for 2045.
Knowing that context changes how the place feels. It's not just a tourist site — it's an ongoing act of recovery.